Photography · Cheat sheet

Photography exposure reference.

Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO as equivalent stops. The exposure triangle quantified — how to trade depth of field for motion blur for noise, and the EV reference for common scenes.

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The chart

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StopAperture (f-number)Shutter (s)ISO
−4 (4 stops darker)f/641/4000ISO 6
−3f/451/2000ISO 12
−2f/321/1000ISO 25
−1f/221/500ISO 50
0 (reference)f/161/250ISO 100
+1f/111/125ISO 200
+2f/81/60ISO 400
+3f/5.61/30ISO 800
+4f/41/15ISO 1600
+5f/2.81/8ISO 3200
+6f/21/4ISO 6400
+7f/1.41/2ISO 12800
+8 (4 stops brighter)f/11 sISO 25600

How the table works. Each row is one 'stop' brighter than the row above it. Aperture stops are powers of √2 (so f/2 → f/2.8 → f/4 is each one stop). Shutter speeds are powers of 2 (1/1000 → 1/500 → 1/250 each one stop). ISO doubles each stop (100 → 200 → 400). A camera at f/8, 1/60, ISO 400 (stop +2) gives the same exposure as f/4, 1/250, ISO 400 (still stop +2 — we made aperture 2 stops brighter and shutter 2 stops darker, netting zero change).

Common applications

Scene / situationSunny 16 starting pointNotes
Bright sunlight (the 'Sunny 16 rule')f/16, 1/ISO, base ISOAt ISO 100: f/16 at 1/100 (or 1/125)
Bright cloudyf/11 (1 stop brighter)Slightly diffused
Overcastf/8 (2 stops brighter)Soft, no harsh shadows
Heavy overcastf/5.6 (3 stops brighter)Approaching low light
Open shade / sunset shadef/4 (4 stops brighter)Indirect light
Indoor (well-lit)f/2.8 + ISO 800-1600Or use flash
Indoor (dim restaurant)f/1.8 + ISO 3200+Or tripod for slow shutter
Night street lightsf/2.8 + ISO 6400 + 1/30Or tripod, longer exposure
Stars / Milky Wayf/2.8 + ISO 3200 + 15-25s500-rule: shutter ≤ 500/focal length for sharp stars
Frozen action (sports)f/4-5.6 + 1/1000+Increase ISO as needed
Motion blur (waterfall)f/8-16 + 1/4-2sNeed ND filter in bright light
Portrait (blurred background)f/1.4-2.8Wide aperture = shallow DoF
Landscape (everything sharp)f/8-11Sharpest aperture for most lenses

Common pitfalls

Common questions

What's the 'exposure triangle' and why does it matter?

ISO (sensor sensitivity), aperture (lens opening), and shutter speed (light duration) all control how much light reaches the sensor. Doubling any one is +1 stop. Each affects the image differently: ISO adds noise, aperture changes depth-of-field, shutter affects motion blur. Balancing all three for your scene is the entire craft of exposure.

What does 'f/2.8' mean on a lens?

f-number is focal length divided by aperture diameter. A 100 mm lens at f/2.8 has an aperture about 36 mm wide. Lower f-numbers = wider aperture = more light. The square root sequence (1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8) doubles light area at each stop. f/2.8 to f/4 is one stop less light, but also more depth of field.

Why is my photo blurry at 1/30 second shutter speed?

Two reasons. Camera shake: the rule of thumb is shutter speed ≥ 1/(focal length × crop factor). At 100 mm full-frame, that means 1/100 or faster handheld. Subject motion: a walking person at 1/30 will smear. Use a faster shutter or a tripod; image stabilization helps with camera shake but not subject motion.

What ISO can I use without ruining the image?

Depends on the sensor. Modern full-frame cameras handle ISO 6400 cleanly; APS-C may show noise above 3200; phone cameras get noisy above 800. Higher ISO doesn't 'add' noise — it amplifies the existing signal-to-noise ratio, making sensor noise more visible. For a critical shot, use the lowest ISO the situation allows.

How do I 'stop down' to f/8 from f/2.8?

Closing the aperture from f/2.8 to f/8 is 3 stops (2.8 → 4 → 5.6 → 8). To maintain the same exposure, you need to compensate with 3 stops more light — either ISO ×8 (e.g. 200 → 1600) or shutter ×8 (e.g. 1/1000 → 1/125). The exposure triangle keeps total light constant when stops trade off.

Sources

Disclaimer. Photographic exposure is creative as well as technical — the 'correct' exposure depends on artistic intent. The reference here is for starting points and understanding the technical relationships, not prescriptive rules.

See also